BPAL

[arianhwyvar]

BPAL Apr 11-14:

Mata Hari (five roses with soft jasmine, warmed by vanilla, fig, tonka bean and mahogany, spiced with a drop of coffee bean): This did not live up to the awesomeness I hoped for from it (of course, what does? The ones that turn out best are most often the things it never occurred to me could be good, like black musk). The first hour was fine -- wet, it was mostly rose (and I'm eh on rose - I don't love it or hate it), then maybe some jasmine, then some other notes came in, maybe some of the wood. There was a bit of that awesome skin scent, with rose. Then it became less floral, and there was a hint of vanilla. However, by around an hour after I put it on, it was largely faded, and started getting soap/plasticy to boot. Sad! (2.5)

Seraglio (Sweet almond and Mysor sandalwood enveloped by a heady veil of Bulgarian Rose, neroli, nutmeg, clove and orange peel): Wet, this was marvelous -- started as almond and spices, some orange, and then I smelled nutmeg, cloves, and a bit of rose coming out. Suddenly, though, it went strange: no almond, a very bitter, dry spice smell. Woodiness, probably the sandalwood. Up close it was way too dry/woody/spicy, but the sandalwood/spice throw was actually pretty nice, though I wanted it to be a little sweeter. Dried down into a faint woodiness. (3)

Calliope (lavender and bright mint with bergamot, verbena, thyme and a touch of sweet orange and warm almond): Wet, this was a nice almond and orange, changing into lemon verbena and some herbs -- a strong, faintly sweet and herby citrus, reminiscent of Phobos. However, it had a very slightly soapy/unpleasant undertone, and at around 1 hr it suddenly and almost completely vanished, leaving only a very faint lavender/woody smell. (2)

Danse Macabre (Black cypress with oakmoss, frankincense, oude, and a sliver of toasted hazelnut): This was so vile on me I seriously wondered if the imp had gone bad, especially since I've had perfectly good experiences with scents with at least oakmoss and frankincense. A couple people have posted reviews on bpal.org reporting similar awfulness, though, so unless they all tested this same imp.... Wet, this was medicinal, dirt-like, nose-wrinkling. Then it changed to smell like garbage, and hung out there not changing until I gave up and washed it off. Besides grimms_creed's imp of Burial, which we also thought might have expired, this is the only scent I've ever tried where I can't see how it could smell good on anyone. (1)

Seance (dry, mellow rosewood, crushed rose leaf and the slightest touch of warm hazel): This one was interestingly different. Wet, I smelled hazel, then an astringent green smell, possibly the rose leaf?, then the two blended together, which I wouldn't have thought would work but wasn't bad. Good throw. It was sort of like hazel in alcohol. Then it changed largely to a lighter, woody smell, but with some hazel and astringency still mixed in and coming out from time to time. I don't think I'd want to wear this, but I liked all the pieces of it. (3)

Tzdakim Nistarim (frankincense, olive, spikenard, hyssop and galangal): Another very different smell from anything else I've tried. There was an overriding note that smelled like some kind of exotic fruit or food -- I'm reminded of those big green fruits in the produce section where you have no idea how you're supposed to eat or even open the thing. I felt like I should recognize this smell, but I couldn't place it. It did vaguely remind me of olive wood, so maybe it was the olive. I could tell there was a bunch of other stuff in there, but couldn't make it out. This stayed pretty consistent through fade down. (3)

R'Lyeh (A hellishly dark aquatic scent): minervaish was right -- this one is nice. Originally I wasn't sure I liked it; I thought "Wow, this is a dark aquatic. It actually manages to be aquatic without being particularly fresh." It was like a dark green sea, murky rather than clear. After a little the scent softened a bit, to something quite nice. I think it may have been a little sweeter than other aquatics I've tried, with some undertone I liked. It stayed pleasant and fairly light. (4)

Umbra (East African black patchouli, cedarwood, vetiver and a dribble of cinnamon): Patchouli, I hate you. Black patchouli, you are extra vile. Not even my bath of redhots can stand against you. I might have smelled a little cedarwood, but aside from that, this was patchouli. Soapy patchouli. Bad patchouli dirt. Yuck! (1)

Tombstone (A rugged, warm blend of vanilla, balsam and sassafras layered over Virginia cedar): This started out as stale-ish vanilla (as vanilla often seems to be on me, sadly, because I like vanilla), then a whiff of something sharper, almost medicinal -- presumably either the balsam or the sassafras. The vanilla warmed up a bit, becoming nicer, but I couldn't get away from that unpleasant edge underneath. I only got very tiny hints of cedar. (1.5)

Arcana (Frankincense, rosemary, lavender, neroli, and verbena): Presumably because of the verbena, this was another one that kind of reminded me of Phobos, only not as good (and herbier). Started out as lemon + lavender sachet, a bit of a weird combination. Then the lemon sweetened, and a bit of rosemary came in. For a little while it was lemon and herbs, which was a fairly pleasant smell, sort of bracing, but then a nose-wrinkling new underscent came in, slightly urine-like. It got stronger, and then faded back a bit, but this definitely can't compare to Phobos. (2)

Blood Amber (Slivers of warm, pulsating blood forever crystallized in golden amber resin): This was pretty straightforward. Started as dragon's blood, sweet and strong, then the amber came in. It hung out being a light amber for a while, with the sweetness and a faint smell of the dragon's blood, and gradually the dragon's blood faded and the warm amber drydown took over. It actually lasted a really long time, though I could only smell it right up next to the skin. I really like amber, but while I don't dislike dragon's blood I'm not wild about it, so I'd rather find a strong amber scent without the blood. Or stick to Haunted for my amber fix. (2.5)

Desire (bittersweet neroli, black patchouli and black musk, gilded by apple, bergamot, blood red rose, teak, and vanilla): Oh patchouli, how I loathe thee. Not even black musk can overcome your vileness, though it makes a valiant effort. This started as patchouli, but not horrific; there was a lot of other stuff there too: black musk, vanilla. I could smell the black musk (nice) on top of the patchouli (dirty). Eventually it resolved on a mix that had many nice things in it, but was inescapably patchouli-tainted. (2)

Gomorrah (ripe fig, date and currant with black herbs): This one was also a lose. Wet it smelled like licorice to me (a scent I also don't like), and then it smelled musty, maybe with a tiny bit of fruit, and pretty much stayed there. (1.5)



I'm sure my reviews are getting a lot pickier. By now if something is like something else but not better than it, I'm inclined to swap it away. As it is, I have far more imps in the 'hold on to' set than I'd ever wear; eventually I'll do a second round and get rid of anything I can't see myself definitely wearing.